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Planking the Deck of a Model Ship
The first stage to plan the deck is to fit the false deck to the frame. A false deck is usually made from 1mm plywood and will need to be adjusted a bit for the bulkhead nooks and crannies provided with your kit. Mark the center line on the deck from bow to stern making sure it is lined up horizontally with the false keel and that the bulkheads fit through the notches on the false deck. This fit should not be loose or loose. The deck false will allow the deck planking a fit easier and lay flatter and more evenly.
The false deck is cambered from the midline to both the starboard and port sides. The amount of camber is usually shown on the water drawing that comes with the measurement kit which should be marked by the designer on the bulkheads as a guide. If the plans do not indicate camber, the general rule is ¼” rise to every foot. So in our example 1:48 from the last article where the width (beam) is 56 feet, the elevation would be 13/32” or 10mm from the center line to the edge either port side or starboard side. Make sure the sheer plan (length) matches the hull plan (depth) and remember that deck curves do not always follow the exact same curve of the hull sheer. This is because the boat sits lower in the water than in the sky. The center distance between the backs and necks is about ¾ of the lengths of the vehicles between the backs and necks. If the plans do not match make adjustments or otherwise the fittings as the cannons will not sit well on the deck (the cannons should point slightly down). You should also measure the distance from the water to the top of the false deck to make sure it is level with the boat. If needed, you can soak the false deck in hot water or hot water with ammonia in order to get the rough curve you need. Remember when cleaning wood, you should only use hot water and leave the item in the water for no more than 15 minutes. In this way the cells of the wood will soften but will not break.
Once you are happy with the camber of the false deck, make sure it fits snuggly to the false keel adjacent to the sternpost or filter post. Using wood glue and pins attach the deck false to the bulkheads. Once the false deck is ready, mark and cut the previously marked openings for the masts, hatches, gratings and companionways. It is better to do this after the false deck is in position because of the camber of the deck.
Now you are ready to apply the planking to the false deck. The deck was usually light colored. The size of the plank for the 18th Century model is between 8 inches and 14 inches with an average of 5.82mm however not all deck planks on a boat are of equal size so any size between 4.23mm and 7.41mm will be acceptable . The thickness of the planking varies from deck to deck. The lower decks are about 4″ thick (2.12mm) and the upper decks 3″ thick (1.59mm.) Remember that the length of the boat should not exceed 5.5″ (140mm).
The deck timbers (planks) are joggled, especially at the rounded edges close to the sky. The length of the plank equals 1/3 of the width planks and the length of the snipe is equal to not less than twice the width of the planks. Since the plank change is important, three, four and for the French boat, five, plank changes. As an example, this means that four planks will be rotated equally between the first and fifth planks in the four plank movement system. It helps to create a cutting jig to make sure all the planks are cut correctly and to the correct length. You can also use this jig for nail design.
On a full boat a gap of 3/8″ wide (.2mm in diameter) is left between the deck plates both lengthwise and at the extreme ends to fit the caulking metal. The decks are screwed in next and then covered with oakum (a mixture). of animal hair, sphagnum moss or hemp and tar) and the fiber is paid with pitch. There are several ways to compare tar lines. Depending on the method of you use, tar strips should be applied before tying the deck boards to the top. deck false.
Black threads can be glued between the boards.
Another method is to darken the edges with a marking pen, which you have to test to make sure the pen doesn’t bleed into the wood and give you a fuzzy line.
O Another way is to use a soft black lead pencil and darken the edges. With the use of a pencil the caulk lines will not be perfectly even and will tend to slide in and out. This gives a realistic look.
By placing the boards on edge and gluing them to a sheet of black paper and cutting them apart will give you a good even caulk.
O To produce a subtle appearance simply place the planks ever so slightly apart and allow the glue to slide up between the planks. You can leave the gap and let it be filled with whatever finish (stain, urethane or paint) you decide on using or wipe the fibers with a mixture of colored glue, or fill the fibers with a graphite graphite mixture ( used for leak verification. joint gasket). It is a little difficult to maintain an even gap between the planking because as the planks are glued to the hull they require clamping which can cause the planks to move around.
You can also use black grout as long as your material is hardwood.
The nails or wood nailing technique depends on the size of the plank. The traditional method for nailing wood is to use strips of bamboo or bamboo sticks drawn through the drawing plate to make the nails. Alternatives would be to use bristles from paint brushes, whisk brooms, push brooms, wallpaper brushes or anything with bristles. Materials made of copper, brass or silver wire or plastic rods are available in many sizes and can be applied by hand or spring nail tools. Once you have created the wood nails, drill holes in the deck boards in the shape you chose and then glue the nails in place. Once finished, give the deck surface a light sanding.
Once you are happy with the deck, it should be sealed either with paint, stain or urethane. If using urethane, remember to dilute the first two coats by 30% with thinner (70/30 mix) and apply the third coat at full strength.
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#Planking #Deck #Model #Ship