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Natural Handmade Soap – Natural Versus Synthetic Ingredients – What Would You Choose?
Soap has been used in homes around the world for thousands of years, although the soap we use today is very different from the one that was created many years ago. The first soaps were made using animal fats and vegetable oils. Modern soaps have many different chemical additives used to enhance their sales appeal. What effects do these additives have on our skin? What are the long term effects? How was the first soap made and how did it become what it is today?
Many archaeological findings indicate that soap was used as early as 2800 BC by the Babylonians, Phoenicians and Egyptians (Garzena 2002). There are different stories as to how soap first came about but the basic process is the same. It is not difficult to imagine how years ago when they cooked food on an open fire, leaving a pot of fat, the food would look for something that would help to remove the fat. Adding some ash and left from it, it is suddenly discovered that the fat washes off easily. Roman legend says that Mount Sapo was named after the soap, that is the area where meat was sacrificed. Rainwater mixes with animal fat and wood ash and is washed into the clay soil of the Tiber River. The women of the local village found that by using clay, it made their bathing easier and cleaner.
In the middle ages the first small soap factories were established in France and England. It is not an easy product to make. Extracting potash (the water in which the ash is placed, also known as lye) is a long and complicated process and often gives inconsistent results. In 1791 Nicholas Leblanc discovered a process of preparing soda made from common salt to be used in the ash field. This process along with the importation of coconut and palm oil made soap production easier and more and more soap factories were established. In England in the 19th century, a tax was placed on the manufacture of soap, and soap makers were given a sole right to produce soap in return for a guaranteed price per ton. This tax was abolished in 1852 and soap then became more widespread.
Many of the original soap manufacturers are now household names. William Colgate’s “Cashmere Bouquet” was created in 1872. BJ Johnson created “Palmolive” using palm and olive oil and cocoa butter. Although these soaps retain their original names they are somewhat different from the original product.
Soaps today are largely produced for economic reasons and at a premium. The natural glycerine that occurs in the soap making process is removed from the soap and used in lotions and cosmetics where it attracts the highest price. Handmade soaps made using the wet process method retain this glycerine and the natural properties of the oils used. Many of the additives used in the production of soaps today have no other value than to improve and extend their shelf life. EDTA is listed as an ingredient in many soaps. It is a chelating agent which reduces the amount of trace metals in the solution giving a clear product, preserving colors, flavors and textures, important selling factors. It is a known skin and eye irritant and is suspected to be a mutagen. Many different synthetic dyes are used in soap production, many of which come from coal tar. Research has shown that almost all coal tar dyes cause cancer in rats when injected into the skin of rats. Natural colors such as annatto, carotene, chlorophyll and turmeric are very unstable in soap, so they are not useful from a marketing point of view. Propylene glycol is another additive that is widely used in soaps. Much research has been done to create additives that will help the skin absorb the active ingredients in skin care products (Rajadhyaksha, VJ & Pfister, WR 1996). Propylene glycol is one of these additives. It is said to permeate the skin better than glycerine and less expensive. The US Food and Drug Administration proposed a ban on propylene glycol in 1992 because it was not shown to be safe and effective for the claims made in head lice formulations. However, based on the available data, the Cosmetic Product Review Committee notes that it is safe for use in concentrations up to 50%. Propylene glycol is also a skin irritant known as triclosan which is used in many antibacterial soaps.
It can be argued that soap is not on the body for any length of time and is quickly rinsed with water. However many people have immediate allergic reactions when using soap indicating that the chemicals do not need to be on the skin for any length of time to cause a problem. How can our skin heal? Rubbing fresh garlic on your feet will make you taste it within 20 minutes. Straehli first demonstrated the fragility of human skin in 1940 when he found that different essential oils take different times to appear on the breath after application to the skin (Farrow 2002 p 46-47).
Although it is said that the skin is there to create a barrier it is a barrier that can be removed and there is no long term research available to show what adverse effects many of these chemicals can have on the human body. Handmade soaps can be perfumed with essential oils or they can also be scented with aromatic oils. Many handmade soaps contain natural dyes but may also contain synthetic dyes. So it is important if you decide that you want to use a more natural soap you must find a soap manufacturer who can tell you the exact ingredients in their soaps. What people choose to use on their skin is their choice. Since I have always loved natural soaps, I now make and use my own soaps made with vegetable oils, natural colors and essential oils. This is my choice. What did you choose?
Farrow, K. 2002, Deep Colour, Thomas C. Lothian Pty Ltd, Vic.
Rajdhyaksha, VJ & Pfister, WR 1996Oxazolidinones: optimizing the delivery of active ingredients in skin care products, Vol. 158, Drug & Cosmetic Industry pp. 36
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